Creped textile fabric



Patented Feb. 3, 1942 Berkeley L.

Hathorne, Mahopac, N. Y., and Henry Frey, Kingston, Pa., assignors toEmery Industries, Inc, Ohio Cincinnati, Ohio, a corporation of NDrawing. Application December 9, 1937,

Serial N0. 179,024

1 Claim. (61.91-68) t This invention relates particularly toimprovements in the production of crepe or pebble fabrics which arewoven from natural, artificial, or mixed yarns, filaments, or fibers.This pebble effect, which is desirable because of the popularity createdby its unusual, rough appearance, is obtained by causing either the warpor filler yarns or fibers, or both, to crinkle .or corrugate after thefabric has been woven. Though most yarns and filaments willcrinkle afterhaving been twisted and stretched and then released, it is essential andrequisite, in' producing crepe fabric of fine quality that the crinklingor creping be both uniform and regular. Usually the size of thecrinkles, their configuration, and structure, governs the texture andappearance of the finished goods, while the uniformity, as described,controls thequality, other factors being equal.

Of this invention, briefly, the; principal objectives are to provide asimple method for obtaining large and uniform pebble configurations infinished fabric, to provide a simple'method for making a variety ofcrepe fabrics of difiering texture and appearance, and to provide amethod and material for treating both fabrics and yarn, to make themamenable to crepingand crinkling to pronounced degree.

The filaments of most of the fabrics now being produced areof rayon,regenerated cellulose, regenerated cellulose ester, and,.to a limiteddegree, of silk. Since the regulation of the tension and twist of thefibers, both prior to and during the weaving process, results in thecrepe eflect, the filler and warp fibers, one or both, are twisted undertension and then woven. However, in the case of rayon, particularly, thefilaments are plastic and so elongate under tension. They must,therefore, be protected by the application of a sizing or otherprotective coating. The type of coating or sizing used governs thequality and texture of the finished fabric, especially if the pebblesize is large.

The creping of the yarns of fabrics is not produced until after thefabrics have been woven and otherwise are finished. Depending upon theamount of twist applied to a given yarn, the tensions which are appliedduring throwing, the

. physical properties of the yarn, and the nature of the sizing appliedthereto prior to weaving, the

yarn is caused to acquire a quality which, in this specification, istermed, latent creping capacity, or, otherwise stated, a capacity tocrepe or crinkle. This latent creping capacity of the yarn is released,after it has been woven into fabric, by immersing the fabric in anaqueous desizing 'crinkles.

one of the present inventors, the discovery is disclosed that therapidity with which the latent creping capacity of yarns is releasedgoverns, to a large degree, the ultimate size and configuration of thecrinkling or of the pebbles manifested in the finished fabric. Themagnitude of the creping produced in the finished fabric generally isreferred to in the art as the pebble size.

It has been conventional in the past to determine the twist or stretch,or twist and stretch, applied to each given batch of yarn or filament bythe creping effect intended in the finished fabric to be made from thatbatch of yarn or filament. In other words, the inherent creping poweralways has been adjusted and proportioned according to the desiredappearance of the particular fabric intended to be'made. If small pebblesize was desired in the finished fabric, thenlthe yarns were twisted orstretched only slightly. If large pebble size was desired in thefinished fabric, then, and woven to induce the formation of large,

In the past to produce uniformly creped fabrics in which the pebblingwas of large size and the texture and appearance even and pleasing. Theprimary difflculties in these respects have arisen through variationsoccurring from time to time in the filamentary character of the yarnand,some times, in its chemical qualities, and, more particularly,through the variations occurring in the successive manufacturingoperations. For one to understand the nature of these variations, andthe nature of the present advance, a brief review of the methods whichheretofore have been used for manufacturing creped fabrics is requisite.

When the manufacturenas is the usual case, receives raw yarn in the formof skeins, he first immerses it in the sizing solution and then driesit. Next, in the process, the yarn undergoes a is twisted at a high rateof, speed (sometimes as high as 10,000 3.1. ML), Either during, orafter, this twisting, the yarn is steamed to set the twist, and thendrawn .(or redrawn) through a pair of closely set knives to remove anyslubs or lumpy the yarns were treated however, it has not been possible,

.flrm position. Next the yarn is woven.

Because the yarn filaments are fragile and delicate and are subjected toa somewhat great amount of handling, abrasion, and tension, during thevarious processing operations, seemingly small variations causepronounced fluctuations in the crinkling of the yarn and thus, in thequality, appearance, and effects in the finished fabric.

Whenever a change in the appearance or texture of the finished fabricwas desired in the past, each of the processing machines was reset tosuit the new conditions, or the new requirements, for instance in thetwisting and the stretch. And the composition of the sizing bathlikewise was altered to suit the new sizing requirements. For example,in the past, if it were desired to finish -ten batches of fabrics in tendifferent creping'effects, then it was necessary to make ten differentbatches of sizing solutions, one for each separate finish, andadjustments were required in each one of the processing machines.

Obviously, the variations occurring in the yarn and occurring in theprocessing operations, coupled with the necessity imposed upon themanufacturer, of resetting the processing machines each time a specificcreped fabric was .to be made, have tended to make the manufacture ofthe creped fabrics of specific texture largely a hit or missproposition. The primary objective of the present invention has been toobviate the uncertainties of the manufacture whether they occur in theyarn or in the processing, and to obviate the necessity foralterationsof machines for specific results, to the end that crepedfabrics of predetermined quality and predetermined texthereof in afabric-embossing machine consisting of a hard, heated roller and arelatively soft, furred paper roller. This fabric embossing machine iseasily adjustable for modifying the creping capacity of the fabric tothe desired degree or extent. Thus, the necessity for the separateadjustments in the sizing solutions, processing machines, and elsewhere,which have been necessary in the past are omitted. The objectives of theinvention thus are accomplished first, by treating or, moreparticularly, sizing, the yarns in such a way as to provide a latentcreping power in the fabric which is uniformly high, and which isreleasable suddenly, next, by weaving a master batch, then in modifyingthe high crepeability of fabricof the master batch, if desired, toproduce a fabric of small or modified, pebble size or texture, andfinally in releasing the residual creping capacity, or the originalcapacity, if it has not been modified.

While the improvements have been disclosed particularly in relation to aprocess adapted for the manufacture of a variety of crepe fabrics ofdifferent texture and appearance from one or more master fabrics, theinvention also contemplates a method for producing a master fabricsusceptible, and amenable to such moditure and appearance truly may beprovided. In a a further respect, the objective of the invention hasbeen to provide a method for producing creped fabrics having largepebble configurations established uniformly throughout the fabric.

The present invention resides in the discovery that better quality andgreater uniformity of texture of crepe fabrics can be obtained bycontrolling the pebble size after the capacity for creping has beenimparted to the yarn and after the fabric has been woven, rather than bytrying to control the capacity for creping by adjustments in both thesizing and the processing machines. The product of the invention, bothin theory and in practice, is a fabric characterized by fine quality,large pebble configurations and effects, and a pleasing, unusualappearance.

In the present invention, various desired crepe effects are obtainedfirst by establishment of a fabric having large and uniform capacity forpebbling, and secondly, by appropriate modifications of the highinherent crepeability of fabric which has been woven from the yarn, butof which the latent creping capacity has not yet been released. In thepractice ofthe invention, one, or perhaps two master fabrics whichpossess latent creping capacity for producing a uni form pebble size aslarge as, or larger than, the largest pebble size desired in thefinished fabric, are manufactured. Then, to obtain fabrics of i otherpebble finish, the latent creping capacity of such master fabric ismodified by treatment fications and possessing creping powersufficiently high to produce pebbles as large as, or larger than, any ofthe pebbles desired to be provided in the finished fabrics. Moreover,these master fabrics are suited to use, by virtue of their uniform andpleasing appearance and large pebble dimensions, without being modifiedat all.

Not all of the conventional sizes which have been used in the past areadapted to use for sizing the yarns intended to be processed accordingto the present invention, since it is the concept to impart a high anduniform latent creping capacity to the yarns, The creping power impartedto the yarn must be released very suddenly and uniformly in order to getintense creping effect, and not all sizes can be removed from the yarneasily and quicklyin the desizing operation. Moreover, the yarn treatedto possess high crepeability imposes unusual requirements upon thesizing composition.

Briefly, we have discovered that gum arabic possesses those peculiarqualities which are necessary for the fulfillment of the purposesdisclosed. Gum arabic, which is weak in tensile strength, per se, hasusually been regarded as being useless for providing the fibers withenough tensile strength for the twisting and stretching which they mustundergo. We have found, however, that the twisted filaments or fiberssized with gum arabic, exhibit a degree of tensile strength as great as,or greater than, the fibers sized with another solution, such as dextrinor gelatin starch, and also that the fabrics sized with gum arabicrespond more uniformly and promptly by corrugating when the latentcreping power is released. In substance, we have found that gum arabicpossesses peculia properties suiting it specifically to use for crepefabric manufacture, despite the condemnation of its use for other modesof fabrication inert oils such as parafiin oil, or preferably, lightcolored technical oils, and mahogany or oil soluble mineral oilsulphonates. Such sizing solutions are characterized particularly bytheir capacity to enable the production of large pebble crepe fabrics,their capacity to be removed quickly and conveniently from the fabric inorder to release the creping power which has been imparted to the yarn,and their capacity to insure uniformity of pebbliness in the wrinkles. Atypical example of such a size, in base or stock condition and adaptedto be diluted with water, is as follows:

Per cent (approximately) Gum arabic 25 Water 25 Blend of white oil andmahogany sulphonates 50 The percentage of mahogany sulphonates in theblend may vary anywhere from, approximately 10% to 70%. Too much oil ortoo little oil tends to produce an unbalanced condition in the size, andoil tends to separate therefrom if the size stands over a period oftime, though, as will be noted, the range is relatively broad.

A feature of a size or soaking bathprepared from a stock or basesolution, such as that disclosed in the example, is that it is the onlysize available at the present time, as far as we know, which may befluctuated deliberately in quantity in the soaking formula over arelatively wide range without materially affecting the height or natureof the resultant pebbles of fabric made from yarn soaked therein. Aspreviously stated, it formerly was necessary to adjust each sizesolution in relation to the pebble size desired to be produced.

Moreover, since the balance of components usually is disturbed whensuccessive batches of yarn are soaked in the solution one after theother, it is not desirable to use a sizingsolution which requiresdelicate adjustment of the proportions of its components. In otherwords, in sizing successive batches of fabrics in a given soakingsolution, the adjustment of the components usually is disturbed throughpreferential absorption by the fabric of one component or another.However, when gum arabic is used as the principal sizing ingredient thebalance is not critical, since variations in the soaking formula becomerelatively unimportant and the nature of the resultant pebble is notaffected.

In preparing sizing solutions for soaking yarn to impart thereto highcreping capacity, it is preferable to use approximately equal parts ofbase or stock size and blend of sulphonates and oil. For example, 8 to14 pounds of stock size,

8 to 14 pounds of blend of mineral oil and sulphonates similar to thatused in the preparation of the base size itself, and approximately-40 to60 gallons of water makes a size bath well suited stationary tubs, warpbundles of skeins are entered into the solution and soaked for from 20to minutes.

The quantity of gum arabic used in a given sizing solution may, asindicated, be altered by varying either the quantity of stock size addedto water or the gum arabic content of the stock size itself, to suitparticular purposes. This is true, likewise, in respect to the oilsoluble mineral oil sulphonates and the mineral oil.

As a generality, approximately one-half part to six parts of gum arabic,per five hundred parts of water may be used,.if desired, in making thesizing solution. Likewise, anywhere from approximately two totwenty-five parts of the blend of oil soluble mineral oil sulphonatesand mineral oil per five hundred parts of water may be used, and theblend itself, may vary between ten to ninety parts of oil, to ninety toten parts of sulphonates, respectively, all by weight. If desired,sulphonated tallow, sulphonated castor oil, or a blend of these or thelike, may be used.

The soaked yarn is treated so that it receives a creping capacitysuflicient to enable the production of creped fabrics having a pebbleeffect as high as the pebbles of any creped fabric desired to beproduced. The processing machines and the loom are set to suit theseconditions. The yarn is woven in the conventional manner and the wovenfabrics are embossed, as previouslyde scribed, if it is desired tomodify the crepeability and to produce fabrics having smallerpebblesize. The fabrics, in'either event, then are desized in water, torelease the latent or residual creping capacity. Finally in thisfinished form, the creped fabrics may be dyed.

The mineral oil sulphonates, which we prefer to use, are derived fromthe process of producing white and light-colored technical oils bytreating mineral oil with fuming sulphuric acid or sulphur trioxide. Inthis treatment, two layers are formed. The upper layer is known as theA, or oil layer, and the lower layer is known as the B, or sludge layer.The sulphonates which are contained in the A or oil layer are highly oilsoluble, while those in the B layer are water soluble.

In the practice of the invention, we prefer to use A layer, or oilsoluble, or mahogany sulphonates. However, it may be mentioned in thisrespect that oil soluble sulphonation products, derived from brown coaltar oil, may also be used in certain instances in the practice of thepresent invention.

In many instances, and especially where fabrics of fine grade and highquality are being manufactured, it is desirable to use mineral oilsulphonates from which extraneous impurities have to use. Whatever tintis necessary is added. The

mixture is stirred until it is homogeneous and is warmed to atemperature of approximately 130? F. When the yarn is sized on the spraytype of been removed to improve the properties of the sulphonates. Whenthis is the case, oil soluble mineral oil'sulphonates are readilypurified, according to the processes shown in the Fischer- Reddish U. S.Patent No. 1,703,838 and in the Heckel-Reddish U. S. Patent No.1,775,622.

While any stable, chemically inert mineral oil can be used in theprocess of the present invention, we prefer to use the white oils orlightcolored technical oils which are produced when lubricating stock ormineral oil is treated with fuming sulphuric acid or sulphur trioxide.Paraflin oils and similar bodies also may be used. Less highly refinedoils may be used in treating lower grade or dark-colored fabrics, butwhatever type of oil is selected, its boiling point. should besufliciently high to avoid loss by evaporation during'the operatio lHaving described our invention, we claim:

The methodof making a creped fabric which includes the step of sizingyarn, prior to the weaving of the fabric in an aqueous bath containinggum arabic, from approximately /2 to 6 parts, and an oil soluble mineraloil sulphonate and mineral oil blend from approximately 2 to 25 partsper 500 parts of water, the amounts present being sumcient to produce onthe yarn a size enabling the production of a creped fabric having a highpebble eflfect.

BERKELEY L. HATHORNE. HENRY FREY. 1

